What is really neat is that I didn’t even bother to calibrate this printer. It printed a belt look without any issues Printed using Polymaker PLA (included with the Trinus, and sold through them at a discount to original backers). I needed a belt holder for grenades for my under-barrel launcher. For a simpler design such as this perfect for faster speeds. Printed using Inland PLA 100mm/s, 210C, and. I am also waiting on an order of more nozzles before I start doping metal printing since they may cause faster wearing. I am currently procuring various types of filaments to play with in this unit, and so far have been mostly using standard PLA. Regardless I feel I would not have had the detachment with a better bed surface. I reprinted that one just fine by lining the bed with painters tape (planning to make a better bed wither by A) better material than the stock acrylic, or B ) just putting said tape down before prints). The second detached from the bed at a faster print speed and stuck to the head. One of the two I tried to print without supports and that was a bad idea with a long bridge (and thus operator error). I have printed 4 items with success, and two had issues. It also works fine with or without Pango, and since I may make a build server using a rPi will likely switch to Repetier in the long term. However, they did take in some backer feedback such as identifying the different Z-Axis leads in the documentation better. Overall it does not seem to have changed too terribly since the pre-production reviews from during the kickstarter. It is not too loud, but not the quiestest printer either. I could travel with this thing and not have to recalibrate anything.
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It doesn’t need bed levelling (smaller print size, with incredible design tolerances). It also cannot shut off the bed after the print is done.īiggest plus: the thing is rock solid it is all steel and aluminium with no belts or gears. Nozzle temp to be appropriate, it has no way of knowing the bed temperature before it starts the print. Since it is not tied into the primary controller might as well make one). The biggest gripe: the bed heater is not tied with the motherboard (I didn’t even get the heated bed option anyway for the time being. It may not be the fastest printer in the west, but it is running lead screws at 70mm/s with accuracy, and I am running 100+mm/s for simpler prints without any real issues. – heated bed really was an afterthought (see notes below about motherboard comms) – bed material choice of Acrylic for the default, rather than a heated bed support by default However, with the ease of integrating other extruders this may not be as much of a long term issue as some are working to port other print heads (even dual extrusion, though last I checked they had not finished this) This means that if they go under, parts may be hard to come by for things like worn nozzles. – custom print head rather than tried and true RepRap model. – preprogrammed SD cards are useful if you have repeat parts that need printing, but unless you have the LCD screen or another controller it will only be practical with one print set per card since you cannot select the file to print.
![trinus 3d printer trinus 3d printer](https://3dprint.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Statue-3-1024x683.jpg)
– Easy enough to use that I could recommend it as a starter unit for those who have never used one and can’t take a large learning curve I see this having a large customization community once more are shipped This might as well be a generic CNC kit that happens to come with a print head.
TRINUS 3D PRINTER DRIVER
– Support for customer extruders via generic stepper driver & control FET. – support for non-official slicers (like Repetier), along with the official Pango – most robust printer I have put my hands on (and that I can find) suitable for home use In short: I love it as a rock solid, stable, and precise unit.
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24 hour review of the Kodama Trinus 3d Printer: